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A First Look at the Diamond-Set MB&F SP One Pavée
Diamond accents lend a dazzling brilliance to the SP One, highlighting its anti-gravity visual effect and fluid case silhouette without ever appearing ostentatious.
While the Special Project One may be the most compact, slender, and wearable timepiece MB&F has ever released, it proudly upholds the brand's DNA of three-dimensional design. Launched last year as part of MB&F’s "Special Projects" collection—a series dedicated to concepts conceived over the years that had not previously come to fruition—the SP One originated from a "Three Circles" sketch created by Max Büsser in 2018. Featuring three suspended elements, the concept was revived and developed in collaboration with designer Eric Giroud to become the inaugural SP One model. Now, MB&F proudly introduces a dazzling yet serene diamond-set version: the SP One Pavée.
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Like many MB&F creations, the SP One (Special Project One) began with a hypothetical question. Max Büsser wondered what an elegant, classic, yet surprising watch might look like if reimagined through the lens of MB&F’s signature elements. He sketched his ideas on paper. During the pandemic, the MB&F team used the unexpected downtime to revisit long-shelved projects. Amidst imaginative fantasies and disparate designs—ranging from skateboards to razors—genuine inspiration emerged, including Büsser’s "Three Circles" sketch. The sketch roughly depicted three circles housing the mainspring barrel, the balance wheel, and a suspended dial. Designer and longtime MB&F friend Eric Giroud subsequently refined and modified the sketch before handing it over to the engineers.
The second iteration of the SP One series retains the elegant, captivating dial design of the original while incorporating diamond accents that accentuate the watch's exquisite structure. However, unlike many diamond-set watches, the SP One Pavée deftly avoids ostentation; the exquisite—one might even say "understated"—setting of 255 diamonds accentuates the case's fluid curves and frames the suspended movement with a play of light and shadow. Diamonds are tightly arranged along the curved bezel and case flanks, creating a seamless, refined pavé effect.
The SP One features a rounded, 38mm white gold case reminiscent of a pebble—or perhaps a miniature UFO. Departing from the convention of setting diamonds on the bezel itself, MB&F has chosen to set them on the inner flange. Fifty-five brilliant-cut diamonds encircle the suspended mechanical assembly like an amphitheater, casting a soft glow over the dial. Two rows of pavé-set diamonds—totaling 165 stones—accentuate the case's rounded profile, while the crown at 10 o'clock is adorned with 14 sparkling diamonds. The white gold pin buckle is also embellished with two rows of diamonds, totaling 21 stones.
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